Get the Complete Checklist for Buying a Used Guitar

Let me tell you something about buying used guitars that most sellers would rather you didn’t know: every transaction involves information asymmetry. The seller knows exactly what’s wrong with their instrument. You? You’re working with whatever they choose to tell you—and a whole lot of strategic phrasing designed to make problems sound like features.

“Needs a setup.” “Broken in just right.” “Played with love.” “Character marks.” “Vintage mojo.”

These phrases aren’t always lies, but they’re often creative reframings of issues that will cost you real money to fix. And here’s the thing: sellers aren’t obligated to volunteer their guitar’s problems. It’s on you to find them.

That’s where this newsletter comes in. Today, I’m sharing the seven inspection points that give you serious leverage in used guitar negotiations—the checks that separate confident buyers from people who get stuck with expensive surprises.

By the end of this piece, you’ll know exactly what sellers hope you won’t scrutinize, how to spot these issues in minutes, and how to use what you find to negotiate like a pro or walk away before you’re committed.

Let’s level the playing field.

1. The Truss Rod Situation (And Why “Just Needs an Adjustment” Is a Red Flag)

Here’s what sellers say: “The action’s a bit high, but it just needs a truss rod adjustment. Easy fix.”

Here’s what they’re not telling you: The truss rod might already be maxed out in one direction, meaning no amount of “adjustment” will help. Or worse, it could be stripped or broken—a repair that can cost $300–$500 if it’s even fixable.

What to check: Ask to see where the truss rod adjusts (usually at the headstock or inside the neck pocket). If the seller hesitates or says “it’s fine, don’t worry about it,” that’s your first warning. If they let you look, bring the appropriate Allen key or screwdriver and give it the gentlest test turn. It should offer resistance but turn smoothly. If it spins freely, won’t budge at all, or feels stripped, the neck is potentially beyond adjustment.

The seller’s hope: That you’ll take their word for it and assume a setup will solve everything.

Your edge: Knowing that a maxed-out or broken truss rod is a deal-breaker unless the price reflects a major neck repair or replacement. This alone can knock $200–$400 off a reasonable offer—or give you the confidence to walk away entirely.

2. The Twisted Neck That’s “Just Worn In”

Here’s what sellers say: “It’s got that vintage feel—really broken in.”

Here’s what they’re not telling you: The neck might be twisted, warped, or have a lateral bow that makes it nearly impossible to set up properly. This is a structural problem, not a feature.

What to check: Hold the guitar in playing position and sight down the neck from the headstock toward the body, like you’re looking down a rifle barrel. The neck should be relatively straight or have a slight, even forward bow. What you don’t want to see is the neck curving sideways, twisting like a propeller blade, or having a severe back-bow (curving away from the strings).

Alternatively, press the low E string down at the first fret and the last fret simultaneously, then look at the gap between the string and the 8th fret. You should see a slight gap—about the thickness of a business card. No gap or a huge gap indicates problems.

The seller’s hope: That you won’t actually sight down the neck or will assume any issues are fixable with a setup.

Your edge: A twisted or severely warped neck is often unfixable. Even if it’s borderline, you’re looking at constant setup struggles and poor playability. This knowledge gives you walk-away power on guitars that seem like deals but are actually time bombs.

3. Fret Wear Described as “Played-In Character”

Here’s what sellers say: “The frets have been loved—tons of character and mojo from years of playing.”

Here’s what they’re not telling you: Heavy fret wear means you’re looking at a fret level and crown ($150–$250) or a complete refret ($400–$600) in the near future. That “character” is going to cost you.

What to check: Look at the frets under good light, especially under the first four strings where most playing happens. New frets have a rounded crown on top; worn frets look flat or even have grooves worn into them. Run your finger along the edge of the fretboard on both sides—if the fret ends feel sharp or are poking out (fret sprout), the neck has dried out and shrunk.

Play every note on every fret. Listen for buzzing or dead spots. A couple of minor buzzes might be setup-related, but widespread issues usually mean fret problems.

The seller’s hope: That you’ll be charmed by the idea of a “played-in” guitar and won’t inspect the frets closely or factor in the cost of inevitable fretwork.

Your edge: Knowing the difference between light fret wear (levelable) and heavy wear (refret needed) gives you hundreds of dollars in negotiation leverage. If you spot significant wear, you can confidently deduct $300–$500 from your offer or insist the seller handle the fretwork before sale.

4. Electronics That Are “A Little Scratchy But Work Fine”

Here’s what sellers say: “The pots are a tiny bit scratchy, but they work. Probably just need some contact cleaner.”

Here’s what they’re not telling you: “A little scratchy” can mean anything from a $10 fix with DeoxIT to needing complete rewiring, new pots, a new pickup selector, or even pickup replacements. And if they haven’t plugged it in recently, there might be surprises lurking.

What to check: This is non-negotiable—you must plug the guitar into an amp. Test every pickup position while playing. Listen for crackling, dropouts, or positions that don’t work at all. Slowly roll every volume and tone knob through its full range while playing. They should turn smoothly without cutting out or making loud scratching noises.

Wiggle the cable in the output jack while playing. If the sound cuts in and out, the jack is worn or poorly soldered. Listen for excessive hum or buzz—some hum is normal with single-coils, but loud buzzing that stops when you touch the strings indicates a grounding issue.

The seller’s hope: That you’ll test the guitar unplugged, accept the “just needs cleaner” explanation, or not bother testing every knob and switch position thoroughly.

Your edge: Electronics issues are often invisible until you plug in. By doing thorough testing, you’ll catch problems that cost $100–$300 to fix professionally—perfect negotiation fodder. And if you find dead pickups or major wiring issues, you’ve just saved yourself from a guitar that would need immediate, expensive work.

5. The “Refinish” That’s Actually a Cover-Up

Here’s what sellers say: “It’s been refinished professionally—looks brand new!” Or they don’t mention it at all and hope you won’t notice.

Here’s what they’re not telling you: Refinishes can hide cracks, repairs, or previous damage. Even quality refinishes drastically affect resale value (often cutting it by 30–50% on vintage instruments). And poorly done refinishes can actually damage the wood or affect tone.

What to check: Look closely at the finish in good light. Compare the color and texture on the front, back, sides, and neck. Mismatched colors or textures suggest a partial refinish. Check for overspray in hard-to-reach areas like the neck pocket, control cavities, or under the pickguard. Look for unusual thickness, orange peel texture, or runs in the finish—signs of amateur work.

Ask directly: “Is this the original finish?” Honest sellers will tell you. Evasive answers are red flags.

The seller’s hope: That you’ll be impressed by how “clean” the guitar looks and won’t scrutinize the finish or ask about its originality.

Your edge: Knowing a guitar has been refinished—especially if the seller wasn’t upfront about it—gives you massive negotiation power. You can adjust your offer to reflect the reduced resale value, or walk away if you were expecting an all-original instrument.

6. Hardware Issues Hidden as “Easy Upgrades”

Here’s what sellers say: “The tuners are a little loose, but that’s an easy upgrade opportunity.” Or: “The bridge saddles have some wear, but it doesn’t affect anything.”

Here’s what they’re not telling you: Loose, slipping, or worn hardware affects tuning stability and playability right now. And while hardware is replaceable, you shouldn’t have to pay full price for a guitar that needs immediate upgrades.

What to check: Turn each tuning peg slowly. They should move smoothly without grinding, slipping, or excessive play. Tune the guitar to pitch and play it for a few minutes, then check if it’s still in tune. Sloppy tuners that slip are a problem.

Inspect the bridge closely. On tremolo systems, test the arm—it should move smoothly and return to pitch. Look for rust, corrosion, or stripped adjustment screws on saddles. Check the nut for properly cut string slots (not too deep, not too shallow).

The seller’s hope: That you’ll see hardware issues as minor cosmetic problems or will be swayed by the “upgrade opportunity” framing.

Your edge: Hardware problems are real issues that affect playability and cost $50–$200 to address properly. By catching these details, you can negotiate a lower price or ask the seller to replace problematic hardware before sale. And if you see heavily corroded hardware or stripped screws throughout, it’s a sign of poor maintenance—proceed with caution.

7. Structural Cracks Dismissed as “Just Finish Checking”

Here’s what sellers say: “That’s just finish checking—totally normal on older guitars. Gives it character.”

Here’s what they’re not telling you: Finish checking (fine cracks in the finish layer) is indeed normal and cosmetic. But cracks in the actual wood—especially around the neck pocket, bridge posts, or output jack—are structural problems that can worsen over time and cost serious money to repair.

What to check: Examine the body carefully under good light, especially around any area where hardware mounts or stress concentrates. Look at the neck pocket (where the neck bolts or glues to the body), around tremolo posts, near the output jack, and along the edges of the body.

Small, superficial cracks in the finish are fine. But if you see cracks that go into the wood, widen when you apply slight pressure, or radiate from hardware mounting points, that’s a structural issue. On acoustic-electric or semi-hollow guitars, also check for soundboard cracks or separation at the seams.

The seller’s hope: That you won’t differentiate between harmless finish checking and actual wood cracks, or that you’ll accept the “character” explanation without close inspection.

Your edge: Knowing the difference between finish checking and structural cracks protects you from guitars with expensive repair needs. Small cracks might cost $100–$200 to stabilize; significant structural damage can run $300–$600 or more—and some guitars aren’t worth repairing. This knowledge gives you walk-away confidence on guitars with hidden damage.

Putting Your Edge to Work: The Negotiation Framework

Now that you know what to look for, here’s how to use it:

When you find minor issues (scratchy pots, light fret wear, loose tuners): These are your negotiation chips. Total up the estimated repair costs and subtract them from the asking price. Be specific: “I’m interested, but the pots need replacing ($80), the tuners are sloppy ($60), and there’s light fret wear that’ll need attention soon ($150). I can offer $X, which factors in the $290 of work it needs.”

When you find moderate issues (refinish, significant fret wear, electronics problems): These require more substantial price adjustments. Don’t be afraid to make a lowball offer that reflects reality. Many sellers are emotionally attached to their “asking price” but will negotiate when faced with documented problems.

When you find major red flags (twisted neck, maxed truss rod, structural cracks, dead pickups): Walk away. Seriously. Unless the price is so low that you’re essentially buying a parts guitar, these problems aren’t worth inheriting. There are too many good used guitars out there to settle for a problematic one.

The Confidence Factor

Here’s what knowing these seven inspection points really gives you: confidence.

Confidence to ask questions sellers hope you won’t ask. Confidence to pull out your flashlight and really look at the neck pocket. Confidence to say “I need to plug this in” even if the seller seems annoyed. Confidence to make offers that reflect the guitar’s actual condition, not the seller’s wishful thinking.

And most importantly, confidence to walk away from deals that aren’t actually deals.

Because here’s the truth: the used guitar market is full of gems. Incredible instruments that were well-maintained, honestly priced, and ready to go home with a new owner. But it’s also full of problems that previous owners are trying to unload. Your job is to tell the difference—and that job just got a whole lot easier.

Want the Complete Inspection Protocol?

These seven checks give you serious negotiation leverage and protect you from the most common expensive mistakes. But they’re just the beginning of a thorough pre-purchase inspection.

For the complete, field-ready checklist—including:

• Pre-purchase tool kit recommendations

• Detailed playability tests (action, intonation, dead spots)

• Specific repair cost ranges for every common issue

• Questions to ask before you even show up to inspect

• Photo-based inspection guidance for online purchases

• A printable inspection sheet you can bring to shops

It’s the comprehensive resource that takes you from “I think this guitar is okay” to “I know exactly what I’m buying and what it’s worth.” Consider it your complete buyer’s edge.

Until next time, happy hunting—and may all your used guitar purchases be gems, not lemons.

Did this help you avoid a bad purchase or negotiate a better deal? Hit reply and tell me your story. I read every response, and your experiences help shape future newsletters.

Know someone shopping for a used guitar? Forward this to them. The best gift you can give a fellow musician is the knowledge to avoid expensive mistakes.

First time here? Subscribe to get insider guidance on guitars, gear, and the music marketplace delivered straight to your inbox. No fluff, just actionable knowledge.

Last month, someone posted a “like new” Taylor 814ce on Facebook Marketplace for $1,200. The photos looked decent enough. Serial number was visible. Seller claimed it was a gift they never played.

A friend of mine almost pulled the trigger. Then he noticed the bridge pins looked wrong. Just slightly off. That one detail saved him from losing over a grand on a fake.

The counterfeit guitar market is wild right now. I’m seeing fakes that would’ve fooled me five years ago. But once you know what to look for, most of them fall apart under basic scrutiny.

The Serial Number Thing Everyone Gets Wrong

People obsess over serial numbers. And yeah, they matter. But here’s what most guides won’t tell you: counterfeiters can fake serial numbers too.

Taylor uses different formats depending on when the guitar was made. If you see a 10-digit number starting with 1 or 2, that’s post-2009. The first digit tells you where it was built. 1 means El Cajon, California. 2 means Tecate, Mexico.

Before 2009, they used 11-digit numbers. And before 2000, it was 9 digits. The format changed, but the location matters less than you’d think.

What actually matters: Does the serial format match the claimed year? I’ve seen listings where the seller says “2015 model” but the serial is 11 digits. That’s impossible. Taylor switched to 10-digit serials in 2009.

The other thing: does the date make sense? If someone’s selling a guitar that supposedly left the factory three months ago but looks beat to hell, something’s wrong.

What Actually Gives Away a Fake

The serial number is your starting point. But fakes usually reveal themselves in the details.

The Logo

Authentic Taylor logos have perfect spacing. The letters sit at specific distances. The font weight stays consistent. Counterfeits often get close, but there’s usually something slightly off about the T or the way the letters curve.

I keep a few photos of real Taylor headstocks on my phone. When I’m checking out a guitar in person, I compare. Sounds paranoid, but it works.

The Bridge Placement

Real Taylors have their bridges placed with crazy precision. We’re talking millimeter-level accuracy. Fakes often have bridges that look centered until you actually measure. Or the saddle angle is wrong. Or the material is some mystery wood instead of ebony.

On a real Taylor, the bridge should be perfectly symmetrical. If you see any wobble or gap between the bridge and body, walk away.

The Label Inside

This is where most fakes fall apart. The interior label should look professionally printed. Sharp text. Centered placement. Quality paper.

Counterfeits often have labels that look like someone printed them at home. Fuzzy text. Weird positioning. Paper that feels thin or cheap.

The label should include the model number, serial number, and date. All of it should line up with what you’re seeing on the guitar itself.

Electronics

If you’re looking at an acoustic-electric, plug it in. Taylor’s Expression System electronics sound clean. No hum. No weak signal. Fakes usually have garbage electronics that buzz or cut out.

Check the preamp too. It should match the model and era. There are photos online of what the correct preamp looks like for each series. If what you’re seeing doesn’t match, that’s a red flag.

The Price Reality Check

Here’s a simple rule: if a deal seems too good, it probably is.

A real Taylor 814ce sells for around $4,000 new. Used, you might see them for $2,500 to $3,200 depending on condition and year. If someone’s offering one for $1,200, ask yourself why.

Sometimes people genuinely need cash fast. Or they inherited a guitar and don’t know its value. But more often than not, crazy-low prices mean something’s wrong with the guitar.

This is where marketplaces like Resyn come in. Zero seller fees means prices stay realistic. Plus, the community verification helps catch fakes before they get listed.

When you’re buying from a platform built specifically for musicians, the odds of running into a counterfeit drop significantly. People who know guitars can spot problems fast.

Where to Trade Safely

When to Get Professional Eyes on It

Sometimes you need backup. If you’re looking at a guitar worth more than two grand, paying a luthier $50 to verify it is smart insurance.

Authorized Taylor dealers have access to the manufacturer database. They can check serial numbers against factory records. They know what authentic construction looks like because they see it every day.

Independent luthiers work too, especially if they’ve handled lots of Taylors. They can spot construction problems that wouldn’t be obvious to regular players.

For really expensive guitars, get multiple opinions. A $4,000 mistake hurts a lot more than a $200 verification fee.

The Facebook Marketplace Problem

Let’s be real: Facebook Marketplace is flooded with fakes right now. Same with Craigslist. No verification. No buyer protection. Just you and a stranger meeting in a parking lot.

I’m not saying never buy from these platforms. But if you do, bring someone who knows guitars. Meet in a public place. Test everything before money changes hands. Get a receipt with the serial number written on it.

Better yet, use platforms that actually have verification systems. When everyone’s a verified user with ratings and transaction history, the scammers can’t operate as easily.

What I Actually Do Before Buying

My process has gotten pretty simple after doing this for a while:

1. Check the serial number format against the claimed year

2. Compare the logo to authentic photos

3. Look at the bridge placement and material

4. Inspect the interior label quality

5. Test the electronics if it’s plugged in

6. Check if the price makes sense

7. Look at the seller’s history if possible

8. Ask for more photos if something looks off

This takes maybe 10 minutes. If any step fails, I move on. There are too many real guitars out there to waste time on questionable ones.

The Counterfeit Evolution

Fakes are getting better. Five years ago, you could spot most of them from across the room. Now, some of them look convincing in photos.

The good news: they still can’t nail the details. The logo spacing. The bridge precision. The electronics quality. The label printing. These things require real manufacturing skill and quality control.

Counterfeiters are taking shortcuts. They’re optimizing for speed and volume, not accuracy. That’s where they trip up.

When You Find a Real One

Once you verify a guitar is authentic, document everything. Take photos of the serial number, label, and any distinguishing features. Keep your receipt. Register the guitar with Taylor if it’s new enough.

This matters if you ever want to sell it. Having proof of authenticity makes the next transaction smoother. Buyers appreciate sellers who can show verification.

On Resyn, verified authentic guitars tend to move faster and closer to asking price. People pay extra for peace of mind.

Bottom Line

Spotting fake Taylors isn’t rocket science. It just requires paying attention to details that most people skip over.

Check the serial format. Look at the logo. Inspect the bridge. Examine the label. Test the electronics. Verify the price makes sense. Get professional help for expensive guitars.

Most fakes fail at least two or three of these checks. The ones that pass all of them are rare enough that you’re probably looking at the real thing.

And if you’re buying from a platform with verification and community oversight, your odds get even better. Scammers go where they can operate easily. When a marketplace makes it hard to scam people, they move on to easier targets.

Zero fees. Community verification. Direct messaging with sellers who have transaction history. When you're ready to buy or sell your next guitar, these things matter. Check out verified Taylor listings and connect with real musicians who know their gear.

Trade Smarter on Resyn

In 2024, experts estimate that over 70% of signed guitar authentication requests revealed forgeries, costing collectors millions in worthless purchases[1]. Last November, U.S. law enforcement seized 3,000 counterfeit Gibson guitars valued at more than $18 million at Long Beach Seaport—the largest seizure of counterfeit musical instruments to date.

The stakes for guitar buyers have never been higher.

• Counterfeiting Crisis: The global guitar market reached $12.8 billion in 2025, with counterfeit goods from China and Hong Kong accounting for 46% of all U.S. Customs seizures in 2023

• Financial Risk: The average loss per fake vintage guitar purchase is $3,200, with Beatles memorabilia carrying an 85% fake rate

• Authentication ROI: Professional appraisals cost $89-$300 but can prevent losses exceeding $10,000 on high-value instruments

• Emerging Solution: Major brands are deploying NFC (Near Field Communication) technology paired with blockchain verification to combat counterfeiting and create tamper-proof authentication systems

Specialist services now focus solely on authenticating music memorabilia, reflecting how widespread the problem has become.

Understanding the Counterfeit Guitar Landscape in 2025

The Scale of the Problem

The counterfeiting epidemic has reached unprecedented levels. According to the Association of Certified Fraud Examiners, counterfeit products and pirating now occupy the top spot in the world’s top five organized criminal enterprises, surpassing drug trafficking and human trafficking.

In the musical instrument market specifically, counterfeit guitars have become increasingly sophisticated. Fraudsters in China, Hong Kong, and Eastern Europe produce near-identical replicas using advanced manufacturing techniques. The financial incentive is staggering—a $500 counterfeit guitar sold as authentic generates 1,200-2,400% profit margins.

Key Data Point: As demand for musical instruments grows from $14.72 billion in 2024 to $15.37 billion in 2025, counterfeiters are thriving in low-cost manufacturing regions, particularly across Southeast Asia.

Why Gibson Guitars Are the Primary Target

Gibson instruments dominate counterfeiting operations for a simple reason: brand recognition combined with high resale value. A 1959 Gibson Les Paul Standard commands $50,000-$200,000 at auction, making the intellectual property theft extremely profitable.

The 2008 bust of Chinese companies paylessguitar.com and musoland.com revealed their brazen marketing claim: “We can make any kind of guitar with any kind of logo you want.” This operation produced 1,200 counterfeit guitars before authorities seized the inventory.

How to Verify Serial Numbers and Manufacturer Records

Step 1: Locate the Serial Number

Different manufacturers place serial numbers in distinct locations. This variation itself can be a red flag for fakes.

Fender Electric Guitars:

• Back of headstock (most common)

• Neck plate (pre-1954 models)

• Bridge plate (1950-1954)

• Front or back of headstock (modern-made)

Gibson Instruments:

• Back of headstock (solid-body guitars)

• Inside bass-side F-hole (hollow-body models)

• Inside sound hole (acoustic guitars)

Martin Acoustics:

• Inside body, visible through sound hole

• Neck block (block of wood where neck joins body)

Gretsch Guitars:

• Hand-scribed on back control covers

• Inside control cavity

• Top of headstock

Rickenbacker:

• Jack plate

• Top of headstock

Taylor Guitars:

• Inside body on neck block

Step 2: Understanding Manufacturer Numbering Systems

Each brand uses fundamentally different serial numbering approaches. A 1959 Gibson Les Paul with identical serial numbers to another model represents a manufacturing impossibility.

Fender Serial Number Timeline:

Gibson Serial Number Evolution:

Gibson reset their numbering system multiple times throughout history. A serial number like “0171 60611” found on many counterfeit guitars represents a 2002 Les Paul Standard according to official Gibson records. However, if the instrument is supposedly a 2024 Les Paul Custom, the number is instantly exposed as fake.

Critical Finding: Many counterfeit Gibson guitars use the serial number 0171 followed by five random digits, with some counterfeits using the exact identical full serial number across different instruments.

Step 3: Cross-Reference with Manufacturer Databases

Modern authentication requires consulting official manufacturer databases.

Recommended Resources:

• Fender Serial Lookup: serialnumberlookup.fender.com

• Gibson Serial Database: On Gibson’s website (verification through official channels)

• Martin Guitars: Dating your Martin guide available on martinguitar.com

• Get My Guitar Database: Comprehensive lookup covering Fender, Gibson, Martin, Taylor, Gretsch, Rickenbacker, and dozens more

• Edgewater Guitars: Pre-CBS Fender authentication specialists offering detailed neck date stamp verification

Pro Tip: Cross-reference serial numbers with pot codes (potentiometer codes) located inside the guitar. If a 1959 Gibson has serial number dating from 1959 but pot codes stamped “1973,” the guitar is either heavily modified or fake.

Identifying Authentic Materials and Wood Construction

Body Wood Identification

Authentic vintage guitars feature specific tonewoods with distinct visual and tactile characteristics that counterfeiters struggle to replicate accurately.

Mahogany (Most Common for Counterfeits):

• Warm, punchy tone with concentrated midrange

• Reddish-brown color with muted grain pattern

• Lighter and less dense than rosewood

• Less expensive than premium alternatives

Rosewood (Premium Indicator):

• Deep brown with red, orange, and purple hues

• Dramatic, eye-catching grain patterns

• Denser and heavier than mahogany

• Significantly more expensive (especially Brazilian rosewood, now restricted)

• Delivers richer sound with clear highs and complex overtones

Maple (Quality Marker):

• Stunning figured grain patterns

• Light color, sometimes with flamed characteristics

• High density gives more sustain

• Bright sound with less complex overtones

• Requires expert visual inspection

Spruce (Premium Soundboards):

• Clearer, brighter tone with good projection

• Lighter color with distinctive grain

• Used primarily for acoustic guitar tops

• Cedar alternative: delivers warm sound with proper overtones

Red Flags in Material Construction

Counterfeit guitars reveal themselves through material inconsistencies:

• Plastic-like binding instead of genuine plastic or wood binding

• Uniform grain patterns instead of natural variations

• Incorrect wood finish appearance (glossy polyurethane instead of aged nitrocellulose)

• Mismatched wood aging (brand new body with artificially aged neck)

• Paint thickness variations that don’t follow natural wear patterns

Authentication Insight: Professional authenticators use electronic paint thickness gauges. Original vintage finishes measure 4-8 mils thick, while modern refinishes often measure 2-4 mils (too thin) or 10+ mils (too thick).

The Hardware Examination Protocol

Checking Tuning Machines (Tuners)

Tuners provide one of the easiest visual comparisons between authentic instruments and counterfeits. High-quality counterfeits still get these details wrong.

Authentic vs. Counterfeit Tuner Comparison:

Real Grover Tuners:

• Mirror-like finish on back side

• Smooth, gradual curves on tuning keys

• Precisely manufactured washers spacing tuning key from machine head

• Consistent manufacturing quality across all six tuners

• Proper weight and response when turned

Fake Tuners (Common on Counterfeits):

• Hazy or opaque finish on back side

• Sharp angles and crude shapes on tuning keys

• Cheap, inconsistent washers

• Noticeable variations between tuners

• Lighter weight, loose feel during operation

• Tuning doesn’t hold pitch properly

Expert Observation: Guitarist Kennis Russell identifies fake Gibson Les Pauls within seconds by examining tuners, noting that counterfeit Grover tuners have distinct manufacturing differences experienced musicians can feel by hand.

Bridge and Saddle Analysis

The bridge reveals authentic craftsmanship versus factory shortcuts.

Gibson Authentic Characteristics:

• Precisely machined bridge with consistent geometry

• Proper saddle material (bone, not plastic)

• Exact string spacing calculations

• Original hardware finish without corrosion patterns inconsistent with age

Counterfeit Red Flags:

• Bridge fit is loose or requires shimming

• Saddle shows incorrect wear patterns

• String spacing off-center or irregular

• Hardware corrosion appears artificial or uniform

• Bridge design doesn’t match documented specifications

Electronics and Pot Investigation

This represents the ultimate authentication secret—the one place counterfeiters consistently fail.

The Hidden Truth About Pickups and Cavities:

The electronics cavities reveal the most damning evidence of counterfeiting. On authentic guitars (Gibson, Fender, PRS, etc.):

• Pickup and electronics cavities show meticulous finish work

• No solder burns on the wood

• Minimal excess wire length

• Wires routed cleanly without crossing

• Interior never painted black (original finish extends to cavity)

• Component placement follows exact specifications

• Potentiometer (pot) codes match expected production era

Fake Guitar Indicators:

• Cavities are “an absolute mess” according to authentication experts

• Solder burns visible on wood

• Excess wire length with poor routing

• Crossed and tangled wiring

• Interior painted black (common on cheap knock-offs)

• Pots don’t align with serial number production dates

• Component brands don’t match period specifications

Verification Method: If you’re examining a guitar online, request internal cavity photos. Most serious sellers of authentic instruments welcome this scrutiny. Refusal to show cavity details is nearly 100% confirmation of counterfeiting.

Visual Authentication: The Headstock Analysis

The Most Telling Visual Differences

The headstock concentration of brand-specific design elements makes it the first place collectors examine.

Gibson Les Paul Headstock Checklist:

Real vs. Fake Gibson Les Paul Headstock Study:

Examination of documented fakes reveals systematic failures. The fake headstock examined by Gibson expert verification shows:

• Horns lacking pronounced angle compared to authentics

• Logo font inconsistencies with official Gibson specifications

• Truss rod cover mounted at visible angle instead of flush

• Split diamond inlay sizing incorrect and misaligned

Fender Headstock Verification

Fender uses distinctly different headstock geometry compared to Gibson, making cross-brand knowledge essential.

Pre-CBS Fender Characteristics:

• Headstock angle at 0 degrees (straight alignment with neck)

• Strings meet machine head poles at correct height through body design

• Logo orientation and font specific to production era

• Spaghetti logo (1954-1960) vs. block logo (1960+) variation

Red Flags on Counterfeit Fenders:

• Headstock tilts backward like Gibson (wrong design entirely)

• Logo font doesn’t match era specifications

• String alignment problems requiring compensatory adjustments

Scientific Authentication Methods for Serious Collectors

UV Light Examination

Professional authenticators use ultraviolet light to reveal finishes’ true age and authenticity.

What Original Finishes Show Under UV Light:

• Specific fluorescence patterns unique to vintage nitrocellulose

• Different UV response in worn areas versus protected areas

• Primer visibility through thin spots

• Consistent aging patterns across the instrument

• Natural variation reflecting genuine age

Modern Refinishes Display:

• Uniform fluorescence across entire guitar

• No aging pattern variations

• Different UV response than period-correct finishes

• Primer patterns inconsistent with authentic aging

Pro Application: Many counterfeits use modern polyurethane finishes or improper refinishing techniques that fluoresce distinctly different from authentic vintage nitrocellulose under UV examination.

Paint Thickness Measurement

Electronic paint thickness gauges provide objective, measurable authentication data.

Standard Specifications:

• Original Pre-CBS Fender Finishes: 4-8 mils thick

• Original Gibson Finishes: Similar 4-8 mil range

• Modern Refinishes: Often 2-4 mils (too thin) or 10+ mils (too thick)

• Consistent Readings: Original finishes show variation following natural wear patterns

• Uniform Readings: Artificial finishes show same thickness everywhere

Field Test Procedure:

• Use calibrated paint thickness gauge

• Take measurements at 10+ locations across body

• Document readings at high-wear areas (lower bout) and protected areas

• Compare patterns to known authentic examples

• Consultation with professional authenticators if readings unusual

Microscopic Analysis and Layer Inspection

High-level authentication sometimes requires laboratory-grade examination.

Professionals Can Determine:

• Finish layer counting (original vs. refinish layers)

• Pigment particle analysis confirming era-specific formulations

• Primer composition verification

• Wood grain visibility through finish (authentic shows wood grain, modern refinishes often obscure it)

• Chemical composition of lacquer or polyurethane

When Microscopic Analysis Is Justified:

• High-value instruments (over $15,000)

• Rare custom colors with unusual authenticity questions

• Legal disputes or insurance claims

• Academic research or institutional acquisitions

Condition Assessment and Red Flags

Understanding Natural Aging Patterns

Authentic vintage guitars display aging that tells a story of genuine use and environmental exposure.

Signs of Legitimate Age (Consistent with Instrument Era):

• Finish Checking: Fine cracks following wood grain, deeper penetration into finish, yellowing or amber coloration in crack lines

• Natural Wear: Frets show wear from playing, particularly high-action frets

• Binding Yellowing: Aged cream-colored binding shows natural darkening consistent with 50+ years

• Hardware Patina: Tuners, bridge hardware show oxidation patterns specific to metal type and age

• Color Shifting: Sunburst finishes show predictable amber shift, fading of reds to orange

• Edge Wear: Edges of body show gradual wear from handling, not artificial gouging

Red Flags Indicating Artificial Aging

Counterfeiters frequently apply fake aging, creating obviously artificial wear patterns.

Artificial Wear Indicators:

• Too-Uniform Checking: Geometric patterns instead of organic grain-following cracks

• Surface-Only Cracks: Checking that doesn’t penetrate finish layers

• Incorrect Crack Location: Checking concentrated in low-wear areas instead of high-stress zones

• Wrong Coloration: Cracks lack natural yellowing or amber tones

• Sudden Wear Appearance: All distressing applied at once instead of gradual, layered wear

• Fret Condition Mismatch: Heavily worn frets on otherwise pristine-condition guitar

• Color Inconsistency: Fading pattern doesn’t match light exposure for documented use history

Serial Number Cross-Verification Against Pot Codes

Understanding Potentiometer Dating

Inside every solid-body electric guitar (Gibson, Fender, etc.), potentiometers (pots) have date codes that should correlate with serial number production dates.

Pot Code Structure:

Most potentiometers manufactured in the U.S. during the vintage era display three-digit date codes:

• First digit: Month (1-9 for January-September, 0 for October, X for November, Y for December)

• Second digit: Year of decade (e.g., 6 = 1966)

• Third digit: Week of year (1-52)

Cross-Reference Example:

• Serial Number: Indicates 1959 Gibson Les Paul

• Pot Codes: Stamped “037” (March 1957)

• Verdict: FAKE – Pots predate supposed manufacture by 2 years

This inconsistency proves the guitar is either heavily modified or entirely counterfeit.

Building a Database for Your Collection

Professional collectors maintain spreadsheets cross-referencing:

1. Serial numbers with manufacturing range

2. Pot codes with their corresponding dates

3. Capacitor date codes

4. Output transformer specifications

5. Tuner types and eras

6. Hardware configurations

Any significant deviation across these components indicates possible counterfeiting or heavy modification reducing value.

Documentation and Provenance Requirements

Certificate of Authenticity (COA) Evaluation

A legitimate Certificate of Authenticity should include:

• Essential Information:

• Specific guitar model and year of manufacture

• Condition assessment with detailed photograph

• Verification of original specifications

• Serial number documentation

• Professional authenticator credentials and contact information

• Statement of authenticity confidence level

• Authentication methodology used

• Date of authentication

• Expiration date (if applicable)

• Professional signature or seal

Red Flags on Suspect COAs:

• Generic templates without instrument-specific details

• No authenticator identification or credentials

• Vague language like “appears authentic” instead of definitive statements

• Expiration dates suggesting temporary authentication

• Multiple authenticators (inconsistent reviews)

• COA produced by seller instead of independent third-party

Superstar Guitars Authentication Standard:

The world’s premier authenticated guitar auction platform charges €90-€150 ($100-$165 USD) for comprehensive written certification. This baseline cost reflects the expertise required for professional authentication

Provenance Documentation Strategy

Provenance, the documented history of ownership, dramatically increases value and authentication confidence.

Complete Provenance Should Include:

1. Original Purchase Documentation: Invoice, receipt, or manufacturer records

2. Photographic Evidence: Pictures of original owner using the guitar

3. Ownership Chain: Clear record of each subsequent owner

4. Event Documentation: Recorded performances, album credits, documented appearances

5. Expert Evaluations: Any prior professional authentication or appraisals

6. Conservation Records: Any repairs or maintenance performed

Photo-Matching Verification:

For high-value instruments, professional authenticators verify photo-matching. This requires:

• Identifying unique identifying characteristics (finish marks, wear patterns, binding irregularities)

• Cross-referencing these characteristics with documented photographs

• Confirming 100% match (not just similar appearance)

• Checking background and context details in photographs

A single high-quality photograph of a documented legendary musician playing the specific guitar (with visible wood grain and condition details) substantially increases authentication confidence[20].

Professional Authentication Services and Cost Expectations

When to Seek Professional Authentication

Situations Requiring Professional Service:

• High-value instruments (over $5,000-$10,000)

• Instruments with questionable provenance

• Pre-purchase verification for major investments

• Insurance appraisal requirements

• Legal disputes or authentication challenges

• Rare models or custom configurations

Cost Structure for Professional Services

Informal Valuations: Free (most dealers)

Insurance Appraisals: $150-$300 per instrument (formal documentation)

• Starts at $150 for individual appraisal

• Varies based on collection size

• Updated valuations often included at no additional charge

Celebrity/High-Value Authentication: €90-€150 ($100-$165 USD)

• Superstar Guitars authentication standard

• Comprehensive written letter of certification

• Includes signature verification and provenance research

Guitar Appraisal (Formal Assessment): $89-$200 per instrument

• Detailed condition assessment

• Current market valuation

• Professional documentation

• Insurance-acceptable format

Specialized Services: $300-$1,000+

• Court-admissible expert testimony

• Chemical analysis of finishes

• Microscopic evaluation

• Forensic documentation

Choosing Authenticators with Verified Credentials

Professional Credentials to Verify:

• Membership in recognized guitar associations

• Years of hands-on authentication experience (10+ years ideal)

• Published authentication methodologies

• References from major auction houses

• Insurance company approval

• Documented track record of authentication accuracy

Authoritative Organizations:

• American Society of Appraisers (ASA)

• International Society of Appraisers (ISA)

• Professional Numismatists Guild (PNG) - for rare collector items

• Industry-specific certifications from major manufacturers

• Auction house affiliations (Christie’s, Sotheby’s expertise)

Emerging Technologies: NFC and Blockchain Authentication

How NFC (Near Field Communication) Works for Guitar Authentication

Major guitar manufacturers are deploying NFC technology paired with blockchain to create tamper-proof authentication systems.

The Process:

1. Unique Product Identifier: Each guitar receives a unique identifier generated from its characteristics

2. Blockchain Recording: This identifier gets recorded on a blockchain (creating immutable ledger)

3. NFC Tag Encoding: NFC tag embedded in or attached to guitar encodes with tap-unique URL

4. Tap Authentication: Customer taps smartphone on NFC chip, triggering verification process

5. Cryptographic Verification: System uses cryptographic protocols to verify authenticity

6. Ownership Registration: Verification result recorded on blockchain with transaction hash

7. Immutable Record: Each tap creates permanent blockchain record of authentication

Technical Protection Features:

• Tamper-Resistant Design: NFC chip destructs if tampered with

• Unique Authentication Message: Each tap generates different secure message (impossible to duplicate)

• Dynamic Data: Tap-interaction data includes timestamp, user location, device ID

• Cryptographic Security: Uses message authentication codes (MACs), one-time passwords (OTPs), or digital signatures

Current Implementation:

As of 2025, brands are actively deploying NFC technology with blockchain backing. collectID’s system demonstrates the real-world application—users can tap their phone to check authenticity and register ownership via app, with ownership transfers recorded on blockchain during resale.

Blockchain’s Role in Guitar Authentication

Blockchain technology addresses the core problem: creating permanent, unchangeable authentication records.

Advantages:

• Immutability: Once recorded, authentication data cannot be altered

• Transparency: Entire ownership history visible to all parties

• Decentralization: No single point of failure or corruption

• Provenance Tracking: Complete chain of custody from manufacturer to current owner

• Resale Support: Brands can monetize secondary market through authenticated resale tracking

Current Limitations:

• Requires manufacturer adoption and implementation

• Not yet universal across all guitar brands

• Requires smartphone NFC capability from users

• Educational barrier for older collectors less familiar with blockchain

Protecting Your Investment

Authenticating expensive vintage guitars requires diligence, expertise, and often professional assistance. The average loss from counterfeit purchases ($3,200) represents just a fraction of potential losses on high-value instruments.

Your protection strategy should include:

1. Serial number verification against manufacturer databases (always first step)

2. Hardware and material inspection examining the details counterfeiter skip

3. Professional appraisal for instruments exceeding $5,000

4. Documentation acquisition including provenance and COAs

5. Insurance protection with stated-value coverage and regular re-appraisal

6. Ongoing education staying current with authentication techniques

The guitar market will continue growing to $26.2 billion by 2035, creating ever-greater incentive for sophisticated counterfeiting operations[4]. Your knowledge advantage, understanding these authentication principles—is the most valuable protection available.

If you hang around guitar people long enough, this question always comes up:
“Which holds value better over time, a Telecaster or a Stratocaster?”

The Surprising Part: The Market Already Voted

Over the last few years, several resale studies and marketplace snapshots have painted a pretty consistent picture.

A large 2024 value-retention breakdown of the top 40 best-selling guitars showed this:

• A Fender Player Telecaster loses around 31% of its value.

• A Fender Player Stratocaster loses around 32%.

So both take a hit from new to used. That’s normal. But the Tele keeps about 69% of its price, the Strat about 68%. It’s a small difference, yet it appears over and over again when you look across series and price ranges.

Move up the ladder:

• American Professional II Telecasters sit near 38% depreciation.

• American Professional II Stratocasters sit around 39%.

Again, not a massive gap. Still, the Tele is usually ahead by a nose.

Why? Not because the Tele is “better.” Mostly because there are fewer of them on the used market. There are simply more Strats out there. More beginners buy them. More players flip them. More inventory means more price pressure.

If you scroll Resyn or other platforms for a week, you’ll see it. Rows of Strats. Fewer Teles. That scarcity, even if it’s modest, supports Tele prices long term.

Vintage Numbers: Where It Gets Serious

Once you jump from modern production into true vintage, the model difference almost disappears and the year takes over.

Rough guide from recent market analyses and dealer notes:

• Golden‑era Telecasters (roughly late 50s to early 60s) show around 9.2% average annual appreciation.

• Comparable Stratocasters from the same window sit close, about 9% per year.

So if you buy a clean early‑60s Tele or Strat, hold it for ten years, and the market doesn’t fall apart, you can often end up with stock‑market‑style returns. Sometimes better.

Example you’ve probably heard a version of: a pre‑CBS Strat bought in the early 90s for low thousands now pushing into the tens of thousands. A jump from something like £3,000 to £30,000–£40,000 isn’t rare in that tier over a few decades. That works out to near 9% a year, compounded, without you ever seeing a stock ticker.

But this only applies if the guitar is:

• Original

• Unrefinished

• Not hacked up with random hardware or pickup swaps

One refinish can knock 40–60% off the value. Swapped pickups can cost you 15–30%. That’s the kind of penalty that wipes out all the Telecaster vs Stratocaster advantage in one soldering session.

You also see the difference when you scroll through actual listings, not just charts or studies. On most big marketplaces, clean Player or American‑series Teles in good colors vanish faster and at firmer prices than similar Strats, even when they’re listed at almost identical numbers. Buyers who have watched the market for a while know this and move quickly when a straight, unmodified Tele appears at a fair price. The result is a quiet feedback loop: Teles feel “safer,” so serious buyers hunt them a bit harder, which helps them hold the line a little better each year.

Tele vs Strat: Practical Differences in the Real World

If you already own a bunch of guitars, you probably feel this rather than think about it:

• Strats are everywhere. There are starter Strats, midrange Strats, signature Strats, countless “inspired” takes.

• Telecasters attract a slightly narrower crowd—country, roots rock, indie, session players who want that simple workhorse.

On the used market that plays out like this:

• More Strats chasing buyers, especially in the sub‑$1,000 range.

• Fewer decent Teles in the same bracket, especially ones that haven’t been modded to death.

That’s one reason you often see clean, unmodified Teles from the 90s and 2000s holding 65–70% of their original price, while similar Strats feel a bit softer. Same brand, same era, different market pressure.

If you buy with your head, and not just your hands, you start to notice patterns:

• Telecasters are slightly safer when you want a “park some money and play it” instrument.

• Stratocasters benefit more from artist association: Hendrix, Gilmour, Clapton, Mayer. When a Strat has a story, the curve goes vertical.

Model vs. Era: What Actually Drives the Price

If you care about value retention, this is the hierarchy that actually matters:

1. Era

2. Originality

3. Condition

4. Provenance / story

5. Model (Tele vs Strat)

Era comes first. A clean, original 1960 anything from Fender lives in a different universe from a 2015 anything. Tele or Strat.

Originality is right behind it. Collectors will pay more for:

• Original finish

• Original pickups

• Original hardware

• Original case and paperwork

They don’t care that you put “better” pickups in. They see money disappearing.

Condition is simple: less abuse, more value. Honest wear is fine. Abuse isn’t.

Story and provenance kick in at the top end. A Strat that shared a stage with a famous player, or a Tele heard on a recognizable record, can jump 2x, 3x, 10x. At that level it’s no longer a musical instrument. It’s a cultural artifact.

Put all that together and you get something most flippers learn the hard way:

A clean, original late‑70s Tele will usually beat a heavily modded mid‑70s Strat in value growth, even if the Strat started “hotter” on paper.

New vs Vintage: Where the Money Actually Moves

If you’re buying new, you’re not investing. You’re renting value.

Let’s be blunt:

• Most new Fenders drop 15–25% the second you leave the shop.

• After that, they might lose a few percent a year until they hit a stable “used” price.

Take a new $1,500 Tele or Strat in 2025:

• In five years, a fair resale band is often $1,000–$1,100, assuming it stays clean and stock.

That’s not a bad outcome if you’re playing it hard for half a decade. But it’s not an “investment.” It’s a tool that held up better than a lot of other gear.

Vintage is different. A $1,500 70s Tele bought today might be worth $2,000–$2,500 in a few years if the market keeps leaning the way it has. That’s where you start to see proper returns. Again, the exact percentage depends on the specific guitar, not the model name.

The Numbers Behind the Hype

Across big resale studies and dealer research in the last couple of years, a few numbers keep cropping up:

• Fender guitars, on average, lose around a third of their new price over time.

• Telecasters in the popular midrange series usually beat that by a couple of percentage points.

• Stratocasters sit a hair below, dragged down by how many are on the market.

• High‑end Custom Shop guitars are great to buy used, not new. A new one can drop $1,000–$2,000 right away. Buy it secondhand and that pain belongs to someone else.

On the broader market side:

• The vintage guitar space sits well into the billion‑dollar range and is forecast to keep growing steadily through the next decade.

• Growth rates hover in mid‑single digits at the market level, but individual pieces can spike much higher.

You feel this if you’ve ever tried to replace a good deal from ten years ago. The numbers creep upward. Guitars you thought would always be “affordable vintage” don’t look that affordable anymore.

What Collectors and Players Quietly Do

If you talk to long‑time collectors, a pattern emerges in their habits:

• They don’t chase every “investment” buzzword.

• They pick guitars they would happily play forever.

• They ignore hype cycles that come and go.

Most of them own both Teles and Strats. Many will tell you they ended up with more Strats because of the players they love, but their best straight value plays were often Telecasters, early reissues, and oddball models that lagged in popularity before the market caught up.

Some examples that come up in stories:

• A beat‑up 70s Tele bought cheap and ignored by everyone for years, quietly doubling in value.

• A clean mid‑60s Strat bought when nobody wanted big headstocks, then creeping up into serious money as tastes shifted.

• A modern American Strat purchased new for work, used on countless gigs, and eventually sold at a loss—but the player got a decade of sessions out of it. Hard to call that a mistake.

You probably have your own version of these stories. A guitar you should have never sold. One you wish you’d bought when it was half the current price.

Looking Ahead: 2025–2026 and Beyond

There are a few currents worth watching if you care about where values might go next:

• Talk of tariffs on imported instruments that could bump new guitar prices by roughly a quarter. If that happens, used Fenders, especially US‑made and older Mexican instruments, become more attractive overnight.

• Social media and short‑form video keep pushing younger players into the market. They often want “relic” looks and modern specs, which might keep Custom Shop and boutique builds busy while classic vintage keeps its own lane.

• Pre‑1965 Fenders still sit in their own orbit. Supply is frozen. Demand isn’t. If anything softens, it’s more likely the mid‑tier vintage (70s, 80s) before the true early stuff.

If you’re thinking in ten‑year stretches, none of this is catastrophic or magical. It just nudges the curves.

So What Should You Do?

If you already own eight or ten guitars, flip stuff on the regular, or run a little side business on Resyn Marketplace, here’s the practical bit.

When you’re deciding between a Tele and a Strat for value retention:

• If everything else is equal, the Tele is the safer bet on paper.

• If the Strat has better originality, clearer history, or cleaner condition, it can easily outclass the Tele long term.

• If you’re buying new, you’re paying for feel and inspiration, not returns. Pick the one that makes you want to play.

For collectors and flippers:

• Hunt for original‑finish, unmodified pieces.

• Avoid refinished vintage unless the discount is huge and you plan to keep it.

• Don’t pay full retail for new Custom Shop if you care about resale. Let someone else absorb that first big drop.

For first‑time buyers dipping a toe into “investment” thinking:

• Ignore the urge to be clever out of the gate.

• Get a good‑playing Tele or Strat that fits your hands and ears.

• Keep it clean, don’t hack it up, and let your taste and knowledge mature before you chase vintage.

The Honest Answer

If you want a number to hang onto: yes, Telecasters generally hold value a bit better than Stratocasters. A couple of percentage points here and there. Slightly lower depreciation. Slightly tighter used supply.

But if you’re in this deep enough to be reading about value retention, you already know the truth:

• A great Strat bought right, kept original, and held for 10–20 years will almost always treat you well.

• A great Tele bought with the same care will probably treat you just a touch better.

The real mistake isn’t picking the wrong model. It’s paying too much, buying in poor condition, or convincing yourself you’re investing when you’re really just cycling through gear.

Pick the one you actually want to reach for every day. Protect it. Keep the screws and solder where they belong. Let time do the work. The market tends to reward that.

Resyn has officially launched!

A music gear marketplace shaped around the real needs of musicians. Tired of steep fees, unreliable listings, and impersonal platforms, its founders set out to build a space that feels fair, safe, and truly community-driven.

Resyn brings the focus back to musicians. Resyn is a commission-free platform where musicians can safely buy, sell, and trade gear with verified users. Beyond simple transactions, it’s built to foster connection, collaboration, and the circulation of instruments that deserve to be played.

Co-founder Christopher Stanley explained it simply:

“Trading gear is how musicians grow, but most platforms weren’t built with us in mind. Resyn is built for players, with no seller fees, no friction, and direct community input shaping the platform.”

John Targon, co-founder and designer, added:

“Gear is currency for musicians. We built Resyn to empower artists with tools that feel intentional — combining utility with an elevated experience that makes discovering the right piece inspiring again.”

What makes Resyn different?

• Zero Fees: What you list is what you earn.

• Trade Mode: Swap gear directly, not just sell.

• Community Tools: Follow artists, message directly, and share ideas.

• Fair Pricing: Sellers set transparent, honest prices.

• Retailer Partnerships: Independent shops like Caveman (Los Angeles) and Tone Shop (Dallas) are joining the platform, bringing boutique gear online.

Resyn is live today at www.resyn.com.

An iOS and Android app will launch later this year. Follow updates and gear drops on Instagram and TikTok at thisisresyn.